RM Buk Ajeng

RM Buk Ajeng is a simple seafood warung close to the beach at Tanjung Kelayang, run by a local family whose cooking regularly earns five-star reviews. The setting is unpretentious, with a covered dining area and tables near the sand, and it makes a relaxed alternative to the larger tour-group restaurants nearby.

Highlights include gonggong sea snails in Padang sauce, crab in oyster sauce, grilled fish, grilled squid, fried calamari, prawns and stir-fried water spinach, plus nasi goreng and grilled chicken for anyone not eating seafood. Bintang is available and guests have been allowed to bring their own wine. Payment is by cash, QRIS or bank transfer.

It opens daily from 08:00 to about 20:00, so it works for lunch after island hopping or an early dinner. The family is also helpful with practical arrangements such as airport transfers, scooter rental and island-hopping boats, which is useful if you are staying in one of the guesthouses around Tanjung Kelayang. Call ahead for a larger group.