RM Amat

RM Amat is one of the best-known seafood restaurants on Belitung's north-west coast, set behind a small sign off Jalan Tanjung Tinggi near the Laskar Pelangi beach area. Follow the lane down to a large dining hall and a row of thatched huts along a clean, quiet stretch of sand.

You choose your fish, crab, prawns or squid from the kitchen and decide how it is cooked. The signature is gangan kepala ketarap, fish head in a sour yellow broth, and grilled ikan ilak is another favourite; prawns, scallops and stir-fried kangkung round out a meal. Prices are fair: a group of seven reported spending around Rp400,000 for a full spread.

It opens daily from 09:00 to 20:00. Evenings get busy with tour groups, so arrive before sunset to secure a beach hut and watch the light fade over the water. Children can play on the sand while adults eat. It is about a five-minute walk along the beach from the Marina resort area.